Gate Designs & Costs

Single vs dual swing

• Single leaf — one gate swings. Simple and clean, but the leaf can get long/heavy on wide openings.
• Dual leaf — two leaves meet in the middle. Common for wide driveways and can reduce leaf weight.

Design notes

• Flat top is usually the most economical.
• Arched top adds complexity (and cost) but can look fantastic on ornamental iron.
• Privacy panels add wind load—this affects operator choice and safety tuning.

What affects cost most

• Gate width/height and overall weight
• Posts/footings (soil, slope, access)
• Ornamental complexity (scrollwork, finials, custom patterns)
• Power & trenching (or solar/battery)
• Safety devices and access control

Track slide vs cantilever

• Track slide --- rolls on a ground track. Usually lower cost, but the track must stay clean and straight.
• Cantilever — no track in the opening. Better for debris, gravel, and areas where a track would be a headache.

Design notes

• Cantilever requires a longer gate frame (counterbalance section).
• Heavy privacy designs can work well, but wind load still matters.
• Good rollers/hardware are a big part of long-term reliability.

Common reasons people choose slide

• Windy locations
• Steep driveways
• Limited swing clearance
• Wide openings
• Better control for high-use sites

Barrier Arms.

• Resorts.
• Parking lots.
• Industrial entrances.
• Parks.
• Controled access areas with a guard shack.

Vertical Piviot

• Good where overhead space is available.
• Can be visually dramatic and secure.
• Require less side room than slide gates.
• Need a large swing arc overhead.
• Need a large swing arc overhead.
• May be harder to seal or screen at the bottom.

Vertical Lift

• Rise straight up with very little front or rear swing.
• Require less side room than slide gates.
• Usually a better choice where vehicle clearance area is limited.
• Need substantial overhead height.
• Often more complex and expensive.

Want to dive deeper?

We work with clients to design ornamental iron gates.

After preliminary design, fabricators are contacted for pricing and delivery time information, then we reply back to the client regarding costs etc.

This may result in additional rounds as we work with client and fabricators untill a gated design is finalized.

See the detailed design page here: Ornamental Iron Design Guide

Style options

• Modern --- clean lines, horizontal/vertical pickets, minimal ornament.
• Traditional --- finials, spear tops, arches, scrolls.
• Privacy --- steel panels, composite inserts, or wood on a steel frame.
• Estate --- heavier frames, decorative centerpieces, matching pedestrian gates.

Finish & corrosion protection

• Preperation --- cleaning & sandblasting, priming, proper coating steps add to the life of a gate.
• Powder coating --- looks great but requires maintnenace over the years. For this reason colors such as black are prefered over more exotic colors and finishes so the gate can be retouched up over the years.
• Rustic Look --- Some clients prefer to allow the gate to rust naturally.

Design for automation

• Strong posts/hinges (or robust roller system for slide)
• Correct geometry for operators (arm angles, travel, clearances)
• Stiff frame to prevent twisting/binding
• Plan for conduits early (power, loops, keypad/intercom, safety)

Typical "adds-ons"

• Matching pedestrian gate.
• Keypad/intercom entry.
• Vehicle loops / free exit.
• Smartphone access (where signal allows).
• Lighting, signage, and safety markings where appropriate.
• Brick or stone columns.
• Additional ornamental iron fencing along driveway.

Masonry

Brick and Stone Columns

• Typically these are two feet on each side, but can be larger.
• They requre a concrete pad, three feet or more in depth.
• Pads are generally six inches wider at the base than the column.
• A steel post is set in the center of the pad.
• Steel arms are welded to the post, extendeing outward for hinges.
• Lighting is often included atop the coulumns
• The mason builds the column afterwards, using brick or stone.
• Artificial stone is most commonly used as real stone is more expensive.

• Size & weight --- more steel and more structure.
• Site work --- posts, footings, grade, trenching, and access.
• Automation readiness --- hinges/rollers and a gate that moves smoothly.
• Power --- distance to power, trenching, or solar/battery sizing.
• Safety --- photo eyes, edges, loops, and proper setup.
• Access control --- keypad/intercom/phone access and wiring.
• Finish --- prep time and coating quality.

What helps me quote accurately

• Driveway opening width (approx is fine)
• Photos: the opening, both sides, and where posts would go
• Is the driveway level or sloped, curved?
• Preferred style (ornamental / modern / privacy)
• Power availability (or if solar might be needed)

Request a Bid Request Service

Minimizing cost.

• Minimize the size both in height and width, perhaps automating just one half of a larger driveway.
• Choose to have a chain link style gate over ornamental iron or wood (don't use wood.)
• Select a swing gate over a sliding gate.
• Eliminate the need for safety loops by not having the gate close automatically.
• Use a less expensive post mounted operator such as the Liftmaster LA400
• Choose solar power if the distance to power is great.
• For those who are comfortable with basic electrical work, bring power to the gate.
  • A permit from WA State dept. of L&I is required but not expensive.
  • Ditch deep enough so the top of the conduit is 18" down, or 24" what folks might drive.
  • Check with an electrician for the proper wire size for the distance and power.
  • Assume that you will need it to be a 120 Volt 20 Amp dedicated branch circuit.
  • Terminate the gate end no less than 10 feet (less is better) with a dissconnect switch with a weather prooof cover.
  • You can also provide a concrete pad (about two bags of concrete) to mount the keypad post on.
• Select a less expensive wireles keypad.
• Call and give the local fire department a gate entry code rather than have KNOX switch.